Friday, March 11th, was our second day in Montreal. With the whole day free to do as we pleased, I once again put on my tour guide hat at took my brother around to few of my favorite places in Montreal.
Montreal is pretty fantastic food city, with many a chef who just makes more of an effort than they do elsewhere. I always mean to try out different places when I go there, though there is one personal favorite I just can't pass up the opportunity to revisit, Santropol on the corner of Duluth and Saint-Urbain. Their main fare is gourment sandwiches made with a fluffy brown bread that they get fresh daily from a bakery just down the block (if you know which one, feel free to post it in the comments page, I can't remember its name at the moment). They also have some fairly good warm food choices like soup, chili and veggie pies (the menu leans vegetarian, though they do serve meat), but I often neglect pretty much everything on the menu other for the Killer Tomato. Honestly, it's every bit as good as when I first took a bite out of one for the first time in 1997. If heaven is a simple mix of tomatoes, cream cheese, lettuce, sun-dried tomatoes, and some spices, then I can say I've been...and it is sublime!
Blissfully sated by my meal, the next stop was Old Montreal and the Old Port. Now, I've been sticking to an only-in-summer rule for my Montreal visits for the past few years, as it's a beautiful city then, and there's always stuff going on. They jam their summers full of festivals and out-door events because their winters are so damn cold and so damn long. Old Montreal retains a lot of architecture dating back to the 18th century, giving it an old world sort of charm. In winter, however, you're not really sure how anyone managed to survive. Brother Dan was sort of astounded that people actually ever chose to settle in such a cold place, and my argument about the lucrative fur trade business that was a boon for the area in its origins didn't really sound all that convincing as I made it. The streets were empty, the St Lawrence was filled with large chunks of ice moving their way out to sea, and it's a paltry consolation prize for what Montreal can be in summer. May though September is the time to go, trust me on this one...

Seeking refuge from the cold, we made our way to the Musee d'art contemporain de Montreal (yes I know I'm forgetting the accent marks, mais j'ecrit avec un clavier anglais mes amis!) for the William Kentridge exhibit. Kentridge is a South African artist who does mainly these great animated films made up from his own charcoal drawings. The process seems slow and laborious, but the result is a signature style that's really intriguing. I had seen one of his films before, Monument, without knowing much about it, so it was great to delve a little deeper and see what he's all about.
Afterwards, we grabbed take-out, rested a bit, and prepared for a film screening that was part of the International Festival of Films on Art (FIFA). The film is definitely a controversial one, Casuistry: The Art of Killing A Cat.

Let's take a look at what the program's description was, and you'll see why I went to the screening with reservations:
"Jesse Power, Anthony Reyan Wennekers et Matthew Kaczorowski are the infamous Toronto cat killers whose torture of an innocent feline garnered international headlines. Vilified by the media and animal-rights activists, they tell their side of this macabre story for the first time. One Friday night in May 2001, Jesse Power, an artist and former vegetarian, enlisted two friends to help him kill a cat. The intention was to make a video that protested our unthinking consumption of factory-bred and slaughtered animals by killing, cooking and eating a cherished domestic pet, the cat. High on a dissociative hallucinogenic drug known to induce violent behaviour, the ill-prepared trio made a torturous ordeal out of the cat's killing while every moment was being caught on videotape. Alerted by an outraged roommate, the police found the skinned and decapitated cat in the upstairs beer fridge. Jesse Power and Anthony Wennekers pleaded guilty to animal cruelty and mischief charges. The third perpetrator fled and was apprehended two years later in Vancouver. This unsettling documentary tells the story of an "art" project gone terribly awry. Explanations from the trio and excerpts from Power's previous videos are combined with observations from artists, curators, police investigators, lawyers, journalists and activists."
Let me say first of all, that I was grateful that they were not able to show any of the actual videtaped footage. What they do have is the court transcript, minute by minute, about what they did do the cat, which is just a disturbing in its own way. It's not a perfect documentary, and it's definitely a rough watch that a lot of people wouldn't be comfortable with, a few people walked out within the first few minutes at the screening I went to. However, it does raise a lot of issues that provide for pretty lively debate and discussion, more so than a lot of things out there. It will drive you to drink however, so be prepared. Incidentally, if you're not sure what casuistry means, the relevance is that it generally comes right before cat in the dictionary, and when you look it up, you'll understand, curious? Check
it out!We ended our last night in Montreal at Le Cheval Blanc on Ontario Street with my dear, old friend Annelies (who was also a partner in masochism at the screening), and new friend Liz (who did a fantastic job organizing the show for Rooftop Films up there!!!). Le Cheval Blanc is another spot that brews its own beer and does a nice job of it.
Well, okay so we didn't exactly END the night there, as we had to tromp around the Plateau trying to find our car after it had been towed pour deneigement (snow plowing), but thankfully it was found (they just move it to another street that's already been plowed nearby and give you a ticket) and we were on our way back to New York on Saturday afternoon.